Three Cliffs Bay to Pwll-du Bay, Swansea

Three Cliffs Bay is one of the most popular places along the southern Gower coast, a broad stretch of pure sand crossed by a winding stream, flanked by cliffs at either side - Great Tor to the west and Shire Combe to the east, and penetrated by a steep and narrow promontory. The next major bay to the east is Pwll-du Bay, a much smaller inlet, mostly filled with pebbles, plus some sand at low tide, and the walk between the two bays is just 3 miles but there is enough to see to spend a whole day here.

The shoreline hereabouts is lined by some sheer cliffs, but mostly by steep, grassy slopes, and although the coast path generally runs between 100 and 200 feet above the sea, it is easy to walk down to beach level in many places. There are a few other patches of sand along this 3 mile stretch but nearly all the coast is rocky, formed of limestones from the Pembroke Group; three separate strata are exposed, High Tor Limestone, Hunts Bay Oolite and Oxwich Head Limestone. The rocks are eroded and weathered to a great variety of formations, both across the slopes above the sea and in the intertidal zone, which has extensive wave-cut terraces, up to 500 feet across at low tide.

The terraces along this part of the coast are particularly good for rock pools and the sea life within them, while the limestone also forms countless pinnacles, ridges, arches, gullies and caves, at least two of which (Minchin Hole and Bacon Hole) are large enough to retain relics dating back to pre-Iron Age times.

Parking

The designated parking place for Three Cliffs Bay is near Gower Heritage Centre, on the north side of the A4118; another location is the National Trust car park at Southgate. From the former place it is a one mile walk to the coast, through a patch of woodland alongside a stream (Pennard Pill), out to a sandy valley, below the ruins of Pennard Castle, rising to pass a steep-sided section of the stream then through sand dunes to the edge of the bluffs overlooking the sea. Paths lead down to Three Cliffs Bay, while to the east, the coast path sets off towards Pwll-du Bay.

Coast Path to Pwll-du Bay

From the bluffs on the east side of Three Cliffs Bay, various lesser trails run parallel to the coast path, or descend to points close to the sea, while main route stays relatively far inland, initially crossing an area of gorse along the top of a lengthy cliff (Shire Combe), then coming close to a residential street, and passing the National Trust car park at Southgate. The path turns southeast, across the slopes of a limestone summit, High Tor, alongside a road (East Cliff) for a while, later veering inland again to pass Deep Slade, a short valley, after which it curves back towards the sea, up to the highest point on the walk, Pwll-du Head, elevation 310 feet. The final section is through partly wooded land, descending steadily, to the pebbles of Pwll-du Beach. The return route can be the same way, or inland along a tree-lined valley (Pwll-du Wood), on a path that meets a road, which leads west to Southgate.

Sea Level - Shire Combe to Bacon Hole

Exploration at sea level of this stretch of the coast can start directly from Three Cliffs Bay, though one section of the rocks below Shire Combe is rather steep, and only passable close to low tide, so a better option is to walk about a third of a mile southeast on one of the paths, before descending towards sea level, at the east end of the Combe. Around low tide a broad band of wave-cut terraces is exposed, here particularly uneven and jagged, covered with barnacles and other shells, sheltering many little rock pools, and some larger areas of water. Walking east, the rocks briefly relent, to an area of pebbles and golden sand, and then resume. Along the lower edge of the slopes are several short caves, and one larger opening (Fox Hole), a little way above. Another small sandy area is passed, approaching the headland of High Tor, and another cave, Minchin (or Mitchin) Hole. This is the largest cave on the Gower, one that was occupied in Iron Age and Roman times; excavations have revealed a wide range of animal bones and other artefacts. The rocky slopes steepen around the headland yet the terraces remain largely flat, though still jagged, requiring some care to negotiate. There are many more pools, and sea caves, plus a third larger cavern; Bacon Hole, about 100 feet above beach level, another for which excavations have unearthed bones and other debris, back to Pleistocene times.

Sea Level - Hunts Bay to Pwll-du Bay

East of Bacon Hole, the wave-cut terraces widen, leading to the broad sweep of Hunts Bay, which once was partly sandy, now entirely rock. Inland is the steep, short valley of Deep Slade, while ahead is the next peak, Pwll-du Head, which incorporates extensive, sheer limestone outcrops, and is a good location for the rare wildflower yellow whitlowgrass. The bay is lined by some especially photogenic rock formations, some formed of smooth white limestone. On the east side of the headland, a narrower band of terraces continues, split by sheer-walled gullies that make progress a lot more difficult, so it is better to move inland hereabouts, climbing the east side of Deep Slade and following the coast path across Pwll-du Head and down to Pwll-du Bay.