Bishop's Waltham Palace, Hampshire

Bishop's Waltham is an ancient settlement in south Hampshire, at the edge of South Downs National Park; originally just Waltham, the current name derives from its acquisition by the Bishops of Winchester in 904, granted by the King Edward the Elder. The village was largely destroyed by Danish invaders in 1001, but soon rebuilt, and in the next century construction began on a grand residence, Bishop's Waltham Palace, a residence for the bishops, in part as a base for hunting trips into a nearby wild animal park.

Little remains of this early incarnation, and instead the visible ruins date from extensive rebuilding in the late 14th century, after which the palace was occupied for a further 200 years until partially destroyed during the Civil War. The site has remained ruinous ever since, though retains a good amount of the structures including the great hall, a square tower, and the bakehouse/brewhouse block, with many other sections evident from foundations. The palace is managed by English Heritage and is free to enter.

History

The Winchester bishop who oversaw construction of the first palace, from 1135, was Henry de Blois (died 1171), a grandson of William the Conqueror. This though was deliberately destroyed around 20 years later, upon accession to the throne of Henry II, as punishment for the bishop's support of Matilda, his opponent in the Civil War which preceded the succession. Although Henry de Blois was exiled, he was later pardoned, regaining possession of the site in 1158, and allowed to rebuild the palace. After some 200 years the buildings were again reconstructed, by Bishop William of Wykeham (died 1404), followed by other modifications throughout the 15th century. The bishops sided with the king during the Civil War and hence following Cromwell's victory in 1644 the palace was deliberately destroyed a second time, with much of the masonry reused elsewhere in the village. The site was returned to the bishops in 1660 though never rebuilt, and ownership eventually passed to the state in 1952.

The Site

The palatial ruins are just south of the old centre of Bishop's Waltham, accessed from an English Heritage car park along the main road, the B2177. To the west, this road bisects a pair of ponds, once a contiguous area of water, constructed for the palace as a place to raise fish, and originally much larger than the two remaining portions. The present day palace enclosure comprises the rectangular inner court, where all the major buildings were situated; originally the site extended south to incorporate the bishop's garden, and north to include the outer court, centred on a stable block. The complex was entered primarily from the east, through the outer gatehouse, long since removed. The inner court was enclosed on all sides by a moat, of which about half is still evident, some sections still holding water.

The Ruins

Buildings and foundations line four sides of the inner court. The northern edge of the enclosure has the least masonry remnants, just a low wall, originally the north side of the bishop's lodgings, and incorporated, at its east end, into a 17th-century farmhouse, still intact, the walls using masonry from elsewhere on the site. South of this is a well preserved block comprising bakehouse and brewhouse, dating from the late 14th century, mostly intact up to roof level, and including such architectural features as a fireplace, chimney, blocked arches, arched doorway and narrow windows. This forms part of the east range, also including the chapel, of which only foundations survive. At the west end of the chapel is the oval outline of a crypt, or undercroft, thought to date from the initial construction by Henry de Blois in 1135. In the south range are other foundations, from a variety of rooms not all of which have been identified. The most substantial ruins are along the west side of the quadrangle; at the southwest corner is a square-based tower, connected by a passageway to the great hall, then a service room and then the kitchen - all these are also largely complete to roof level, though the inner wall of the hall is mostly missing. At the northwest corner of the site are the ruins of the inner gatehouse.